Öland – a camping paradise with lots to offer
White sand beaches, sunsets, ruins and red limestone walls decorated by time. Öland is undoubtedly one of the shining jewels of summer-Sweden and offers something for everyone. Head out into the Baltic Sea and discover how Sweden's arguably greatest camping paradise has grown throughout history, influenced by royalty, inland glaciers and the occasional sheep.
In the mid-1800s, young Prince Oscar lived a carefree life, not yet burdened by the weight of the crown. He cruised around the new seaside resorts, such as Marstrand and Särö on the Swedish west coast, in his steam-powered motor yacht. The prince proposed establishing a similar resort at Öland, and not long thereafter construction began on the Borgholm resort, including expanding the harbour to allow for more marine traffic. This laid the foundation for Öland as a tourist destination. Without Prince Oscar, Öland may never have developed into the swimming paradise that it has become today.
TWO SIDES OF ÖLAND
Öland is connected by two main roads – one in the west and one in the east – that converge towards the narrower northern part of the island. Northern Öland – from Borgholm via Sandvik to Byrum and Böda – tends to be described as more vibrant, while the southern half tends to be viewed as more subdued: nature, farming, Stora Alvaret and birdwatching. We let the journey be the destination and give in to every temptation we encounter along the side roads: entertaining flea markets, cosy garden cafés, tiny villages, fascinating nature, and charismatic entrepreneurs.
A PLACE FOR EVERYONE
The early tourist boom centred around Borgholm and Solliden, the royal residence Queen Victoria had built here in 1903. Back then, it targeted a type of society-tourism. Today, Solliden is one of the most popular and versatile destinations for all ages. Children can enjoy a treasure hunt in the palace garden as well as the zipline, obstacle course and hobbyhorse track in the playground. Solliden Sessions holds summer concerts that are appreciated by both children and parents alike.
After that, Öland increasingly became a camping destination. It was a volume of tourism that had a completely different impact."
ÖLAND'S MAGICAL LIGHT
A new target group – artists – found Öland during the second world war since they could not travel to Europe for inspiration. Vickleby in southern Öland became a gathering place for artists and is still a popular destination today.
"This is how Öland became viewed as an artist's landscape, and the light here is quite special," ex- plains Julius Winberg Sääf, head of Ölands Museum Himmelsberga.
The beautiful light that plays among the stone walls and wild orchids and in the evening casts long shadows over Stora Alvaret is particularly evident as we drive around Öland – as is the art. We visit the museum in Himmelsberga and some of the artisans, writers, potters and other artists with their open workshops in fantastic settings. We experience local art as well as authentic, old Öland farms.
BIRTH OF A CAMPING PARADISE
Öland's metamorphosis started with the construction of the bridge. The 6,000-meter road straight across Kalmar Sound opened in 1972 and connected Öland to the mainland. Simply descending from the bridge's midpoint and watching Öland spread out on the other side is worth the drive.
"After that, Öland increasingly became a camping destination. It was a volume of tourism that had a completely different impact," says Julius.
The simple cabin villages began to be replaced or upgraded to comfortable campsites, which today have a strong influence on the island. All of them are close to the beach – or right next to the beach in many cases – and there is something for everyone: true resorts and smaller, quieter sites. Öland has truly blossomed into the ultimate family destination: swimming and beaches as far as the eye can see, exciting ruins and castles, firstclass camping and lots of fun. All this on an island with unique, well-preserved nature.
SHEEP SAFARI AT THE HEART OF THE ISLAND
Four-year-old border collie Nelson is the first to greet us when we arrive at the Mittlandsgården farm. His owner Caroline was just about to prepare a hike for children on Crown Princess Victoria's birthday, which is a big celebration here on the island due to its strong connection to the royal family.
Caroline is a biologist, and she and her husband Magnus work on behalf of the county with outdoor facilities maintenance and nature preservation. Their work makes possible the fantastic nature visitors experience when spending time on Öland. Caroline and Magnus have recreated pastures where their sheep now graze, thereby helping keep Öland's nature healthy and available to visitors.
They have had sheep and bees at their farm for a long time as a natural part of their life in the country, but over time these activities have grown into a business, and Caroline now offers guided tours. "We started our sheep safari because the grandchildren of the older residents in the area often came to visit. The grandparents appreciated the opportunity for the children to experience nature," says Caroline. We not only get to feed and pet the animals on the safari, but also to see salamanders and other exciting things. Caroline also shared some captivating stories that are guaranteed to raise visitors' appreciation and respect for the unique Öland landscape.
"I want to offer an alternative to the fast life," says Caroline.
"One of the comments I hear most often is that people suddenly begin to see things they didn't see before. This inspires me, being able to reduce the gap between producer and consumer, and offer some new knowledge." Her husband Magnus is building the new farm shop they will use next season to sell sheepskin and honey.
The hives are spread out – in the forest, in the meadows, at the edge of the field – and the bees feast on different kinds of flowers. Bees will fly 2–3 km to forage for food, so Caroline and Magnus can control which flowers the bees will have access to, and different flowers give the honey different flavour, colour and texture. But, over the centuries, the inputs have never varied: the nectar from flowers and the bee's special touch. "The recipe is handed down, from mother to daughter."
PART OF HISTORY
As we cross the island, which is almost 140 km long, it is impossible not to be struck by the contrasts: old and new, serene and vibrant, lush and barren. The pines stand at an angle, somewhat capitulating to their life-long battle against strong autumn winds. The rare red kite, with its deeply forked tail, sweeps across the meadows. The beaches create childhood memories. And, throughout the island, medieval churches tower above the flat landscape, which is home to so much. The churches remind us of time past and time coming. Of dreams and battles. Of sadness, of love, and of the beauty of continuing to add to Öland's impressive history.
campsites on Öland
Selected filters:
