AROUND LAKE VÄNERN

Rolling fields, mystical forests, famous battles and delicious drinks. Sweden's largest lake offers storytelling, culinary experiences and nature. 

The view is hard to beat. From Kinnekulle, it spans forests, rolling fields, and small waterways, and at the horizon Lake Vänern sparkles in all its glory. The ta­bleland mountain and the nature reserve  west of Götene are a great place to start an article about the area around Lake Vänern. The varied, lush and unique nature created between Sweden's largest lakes, Lake Vänern here and Lake Vättern to the east, thrives on what is often called the "blooming mountain". The amount of plant di­versity here is rare in Sweden: wild spring onions discovered first with the nose and then with the eyes, countless late-spring cherry trees, and early purple orchids. 

This article, and naturally the trip it describes, could just as easily have started at any number of other places around Lake Vänern and offered a completely different experience, which is the point of coming here. Its variation is its strength. The area covered by Sweden's largest lake is so large that it has almost everything. The fertile Västgöta plains to the south, the locks of Göta Canal to the east, Dalsland's idyllic waterways to the west, and the Värmland forests to the north. 

We are starting at Kinnekulle, which makes it easy to continue on to the cosy Västgöta cit­ies and other areas to the east and south-east. A short trip inland, for example, takes visitors to one of Sweden's most dramatic historical events. Hova Medieval Week is held every year in July (this year 9-17/7) to commemorate the faboulus battle fought here in 1275. The intense battle be­tween king Valdemar Birgersson and his brothers Erik and Magnus is one of the most well known to Swedish history. Magnus' hired soldiers from Denmark and Germany defeated Valdemar's force of farmers, and Magnus then claimed the throne and became one of Sweden's most influ­ential and important kings. The town celebrates the battle today by re-enacting the Middle Ages, complete with knights and spectacular tournaments. A must for families with kids. 

History and fish on the menu

Mariestad is also rich with history. Visitors can take guided tours of the old town and its charac­teristic wooden houses, relax in lush Alparken, which dates back to the 1860s, or visit the magni­ficent late-Gothic cathedral built in 1593. lf there is time for a short detour, Lake Vänern's largest is­land Torsö has prehistoric markings, hiking trails and the excellent restaurant Laxhall with views of the lake. 

lf historical excursions make you hungry, there are plenty of fish restaurants in Mariestad, particularly at the harbour. And if the contents of your glass are just as interesting as what's on your plate, don't miss the beer brewery Bryggeriet Mariestad or the whisky distillery Kingfisher. 

Continuing south, the road leads to Lid­köping, where visitors can get a closer look at Lake Vänern to contrast the spectacular panora­ ma view from Kinnekulle. Lake Vänern Museum features an aquarium with fish from the lake and a !arge collection from the long history of ship­ping and trade in the area. And shipping and trade are still highly relevant: many of the boats headed into Lake Vänern's archipelago leave from Lid­ köping. There is also shopping: a unique selection of boutiques and the Rörstrandstore from the lo­cal porcelain factory. 

And when in Lidköping, visitors shouldn't  miss the island Kållandsö to the north, which has at least two must-see attractions. Beautiful Läckö Castle, which was built when Sweden was a great power in Europe, offers a kids' safari, lush gar­dens, and opera as well as guided tours. 

North of the castle is also the fishing village Spiken, with its restaurant huts and fish shops, that quite possibly is one of the most idyllic spots around this gigantic lake. Here, at the wharf, visi­tors will want to do nothing  more than order fresh fish and chips and something cold to drink and just enjoy the sun.